New Zealand - February 24 - In which we swim with dolphins!

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The morning began early with a peak around the grounds of the Asylum Backpackers. While it was fascinating to imagine the hospital and grounds fully populated with New Zealand's mentally ill - premedication, there were only the function buildings left standing - the offices, the bakery, the stable, the butcher. Except for the office which is what has been converted into a hostel, the other buildings are only used for storage. Largely this storage is junk - doors and chairs and boards...except somebody involved has a *thing* for antique cars. And, antique cars in mouldering buildings with only minimal slatted morning light filtering through wall cracks and grime coated windows, adds a great deal of ambiance. Particularly in combination with this old wheelchair.

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But, we couldn't linger long. We had a date in Akaroa with the world's smallest dolphins. Still, our drive was not without excitement - We almost killed a hawk which had caught a mouse by the side of the road. He barely reached enough elevation to carry it over our speedily oncoming car. AND, we crossed NZ's longest bridge!

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We took a detour to hike the Peel Forest's Big Tree Walk. The hike was short - maybe a kilometer, but the trees were very big. They were (are) totara trees. The largest was 8.4 metres circumference and over 1000 years old. Makes me look positively young!

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The highlight of the day had to be, however, swimming with Hector's dolphins in Akaroa! We found the peer and parking with only a few negative minutes to spare. I figure missing the majority of the information talk probably just put us on par with most of the other (non-English) speaking guests. First we were issued our wet suits. These were special not-for-sinking wet suits. Pretty amazing invention. Would have seriously shortened Jacques Cousteau's Undersea Voyages!

Then we boarded a little boat and under the pretty blue sky went out into the bay in search of dolphins. Once located we were thrown overboard and told to try to appear interesting so as to draw them in. I am seriously impaired when it comes to appearing interesting, even to my own species, and treading water (sort of, I was never going to sink) while squealing into my snorkel... I tired of it easily. At this point I don't really remember seeing a dolphin swim anywhere near (though it could have been affected by my not wearing my glasses), until being chilled, I climbed back onto the boat. Kevin persisted much longer and eventually our "crew in the water" consisted exclusively of older men.

Dolphin watching position is a lot like rounding the wagons in anticipation of an Indian attack but with fewer weapons.

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Practicing our sign communication. "Help. OK." (Note the life sized poster of the Hector's dolphin behind us.)

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Spotting a little blue penguin - our only penguin sighting in NZ.

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Hector's Dolphins! (click for video)

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After the crew served hot chocolate while we cruised back to Akaroa. We changed and then declined the opportunity to buy the souvenir photos - though I was tempted - and drove on North to Christchurch.

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And, in Christchurch a miracle occurred. Kevin ate food that he almost gushed over! If you have never talked with Kevin about food you don't know that he has a very utilitarian view towards eating, "It fills my stomach", and while I've seen him overeat and have heard him express satisfaction about a meal, I don't think I've ever seen him enjoy a meal so much. So, Kevin and Ann both give FIVE STARS to The Bodhi Tree - a Burmese Restaurant and strongly recommend saving room for dessert: sorbet with chilies!

Tonight's hostel: Foley Towers. A nice enough place with all the expected references to Basil's establishment on the BBC.

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